By Ken Valenti

WESTPORT–Not to overstate the obvious, but when you order the lobster club sandwich at Little Barn, the eatery at 1050 Post Road East, it’s all about the lobster.

The bacon adds crunch and that savory saltiness, which complement the cold lobster meat nicely. The tomato and lettuce? Sure. They add a little brightness to the look and the flavor, and if anyone asks, you can say you had vegetables with lunch or dinner.

But these items are thin layers under and on top of the fistful of lobster, one of the favorites – according to the menu – at the eatery that aims to be both “rustic and chic.” (I’m sure they don’t actually use their fists, but the image gives a good sense of the shellfish contents.)

For $28.95, the sandwich also comes with a small side of coleslaw. (More vegetables!) And a pickle spear. (See previous “More vegetables!” note.) Also, French fries, with, of course, the bottle ketchup. (See Reagan era for “More vegetables!”)

The middle slice of bread that usually helps characterize the typical club sandwich? That’s nowhere to be seen. And the sliced turkey or chicken salad that you probably think of when someone mentions a club sandwich? Well, you can get that sandwich probably in every diner from Boston to Santa Barbara.

The lobster club stands out on a menu that has plenty of classic casual American foods. New England clam chowder, Guiness beef chili, Bourbon steak tips. The wings? Buffalo style. Nothing fancy or fusion-y. No teriyaki-pineapple-lychee wings coat the flats and drumettes. Just the classic, orange hot sauce.

You will find a cuisine-blending twist or two – the Reuben eggrolls, for example.

But the lobster club keeps it simple. Texas toast, bacon, lettuce and tomato. And a fistful of lobster.

Ken Valenti

^{_{A career journalist and lifelong resident of the New York City region, Ken Valenti has enjoyed decades of reporting local, regional and national news in New York and Connecticut. Topics of special interest are development, the environment, Long Island Sound and transportation. When not reporting, he’s always on the lookout for the perfect coffee shop or used book sale.}}